Sister Visit! Pt. 1

This post is going to be written in two parts for a few reasons. First, it's how the trip was divided. Second, it will give both Shannon and I an opportunity to talk about some of the stuff that we did.

For a while we have been planning on hosting Shannon's sister Meagan for a trip. The primary purpose of this trip was to have her help us with some of the wedding planning, but of course along the way, we would be doing lots of cool stuff.

The day after she arrived, we drove up to Otavalo, the area of Ecuador where we're going to get married this July. We met with the woman at the property and had some conversations, and most importantly made some decisions for the wedding. I'm not going to spoil any of those decisions here since I imagine 100% of the audience who reads this blog will be coming to the wedding.

After our meeting, we had a nice lunch and checked into the hotel where we would regroup and head out for some adventures. When we got to our room, the strong musk of mold, dust, and decay filled the air. I went outside to sit in the hammock while Meagan laid down for a nap (she was very sick at this point), and after being folded in half 6 feet in the hair due to a poorly planned hammock hanger, we all realized that this place would simply not do. We checked out and found other accommodations. I spent the rest of the afternoon leisurely reading while the two ladies napped in an effort to recharge their bodies from sickness. At least in our new place, we weren't going to get even sicker.

Dude...Condors are Scary

The next morning, after a pleasant and restful night, we woke up early to do a few things. We started things off by going to the Ecuador's famous, Condor Park. We took a taxi up a winding cobblestone trail (note: NOT a road) and after about 20 minutes, we found ourselves at the park. It was a little underwhelming for me at first because the first part of the park is essentially a zoo of Andean carnivorous birds. It was cool to see a wide array of owls, hawks, and eagles but it seemed like just a really cool zoo with an incredible view. We had heard of a pretty impressive bird flight show and as we were making our way there, we saw an area with the big birds. There was an Andean Condor, which was the biggest bird I had ever seen. It stood perched on a log eying us up and down knowing that he could take us in a fight. Just standing on a log, the thing looked to be over four feet tall. These things are birds, and they have a wingspan range of 8-10 feet. Feet. That is like a bird that is wider than Shaq is tall. Anyway, after we saw the Condor we came across a few bald eagles which was really cool because, "Merica.

Go Gringa Go!

Then the flight show started just as we got to our seats. The show was actually pretty impressive. The backdrop of beautiful vistas in the Andes as hawks and different birds twirled and dive bombed and did all kinds of cool stuff was really incredible. The stars of the show were obviously the two bald eagles named Gringa and Gringo of course. It ended up being quite the adventure and definitely worth seeing.

Madness for Carnival

When we left Condor Park, we took another taxi over to Peguche Waterfalls. Our first sign that there was going to be trouble was when we pulled up and the cab driver said "Buena Suerte/Good Luck" as he pulled away. What we didn't realize is that it was Carnival. An Ecuadorian tradition during Carnival is to spray people with foam, dump buckets of water on them, throw colored powder on them, and generally create and promote general tomfoolery.

Victim

We walked through the little street with vendors selling food, beer, ice cream, and of course mischief making foam and powder. We got a few good natured foam sprays on us as we made our way to the waterfalls but left quickly when we arrived because it was becoming sanctioned street terrorism. We were all feeling a little uncomfortable so we decided to head back. On the way back, during our fifteen minute hike, we heard a teenager yell "Vamos, hay gringos!" (Let's go, there are gringos) and we were attacked with foam and water. Along the way, Meagan was water sprayed and had yellow powder thrown on her. Shannon had some punk kid smear black powder on her face. They largely avoided me aside from a few foam sprays.

Otavalo Market

We took refuge in a new taxi and watched as kids threw buckets of water from the rooftops on pedestrians and cars as they passed. We made our way to the Otavalo Market and were safe from then on. We wandered up and down the aisles of indigenous hand-crafted blankets, leather goods, sweaters, and countless other beautiful goods before making our way over to the famous Shanandoa Pie Shop where we ate a lunch of pie, ice cream, and coffee. After our lunch, we went back to the hotel where we were spending the next two nights.

When we got to the hotel, I made my way to the service counter to see if and where I would be able to watch the Super Bowl. I was given directions to the one television with satellite cable on the property and took my snacks and a few beers over there to watch. When Shannon and I got there we met a few other gringos and watched the game in Spanish while all cramped into a tiny room that was about 7 feet wide by 18 feet long. We enjoyed the company and the game throughout the night and Meagan joined us a short while later.

Cuicocha Lake

The next morning, we woke up and had breakfast before leaving to go on a hike. We drove up through more winding cobblestone roads and found our way to a national park center overlooking a huge volcanic crater lake called Cuicocha. As soon as we got out of the car and packed our pockets full of hiking snacks, we were on our way. About fifteen feet into the hike, the heavens opened up and it began pouring rain. We took refuge in a restaurant for fifteen more minutes before deciding that we were going to brave the hike and then we began. Shortly after we resumed, the rains lifted and the view was incredible. We hiked for a few hours before returning to the lodge to have a nice meal.

Cuicocha Lake

When we got back to the room that night, we used our in-room fireplace as a makeshift s'more station and roasted marshmallows. It was an incredible start to our time with Meagan. We did some wedding planning, got attacked, watched the Super Bowl, and went on a beautiful hike. Now we're back at home recharging for our trips the rest of this week to the hot springs of Papallachta and for our triumphant return to the Amazon Rainforest.

Santa Clara

Lamps and Tables

We were hosting some friends for lunch on our back patio one day when I realized that, while we had improved on our patio, it was still flush with potential and I wanted to make improvements. I mentioned to Justin that I wanted to make some changes and threw out some ideas. He thought it unnecessary, but being of active mind and ambition, I wanted to make this my project for the first part of our two week vacation.

Our first stop was Santa Clara. Santa Clara is a small part of town on the south end of Quito known for handmade wood furniture and furnishings. The actual market is no bigger than a couple of blocks and all of the furniture appears to be done in the same style. Big, heavy dressers and dining room tables carved from a dark wood. Everything is hand made and heavy. It's actual wood, rather than the particle board IKEA stuff that you can find at most places in the states. The artisans in this area also specialize in wicker and bamboo furniture and all types of woven baskets.

Wood Crafts

When you walk into a shop, there is about a 1.5-3 foot walking area, the rest of the surrounding area is nothing but wood things. Stacks and stacks of end tables from floor to ceiling. Kitchen tables from corner to corner. Stools, chairs, and everything else in between, all hand made. All heavy and all available for a negotiated prices. It's really an incredible experience to see it all.

As part of my back patio makeover project, I was looking for a small table to hold our potted herbs. We are growing rosemary, cilantro, and aji pepper. After browsing the shops for a quick half hour, I settled on a simple wire rack to hold the herbs. But, I just couldn’t resist some of the multicolored hand-woven baskets. We haggled a bit, as is done here and when we agreed upon some prices, I bought three of these used them as planters for the herbs. Now we have a bright, cheerful patio and homegrown herbs! After it was all said and done, Justin agreed that it was the right move.

Herbs and new Flowers

Guayasamin Museum

First I want to say that the delay in posting is yet again a combination of being busy and nothing new and TOO interesting happening. During our first year, everything was new. Everything was a challenge. This year, we have settled into our lives a bit more and we have been able to find some consistency in navigating our way around challenges. There are still times where we nearly pull out our hair in frustration, but we have largely been able to acclimate to the ups and downs of living in Quito.

That being said, there are still routine things that have kept us busy and preventing us from writing many posts. The October-March time frame is always a little rough for us since Shannon coaches swimming 5 days a week and I do the same with the basketball team. (Her team is doing great again and my boys have finished the regular season with a record of 8-6 and one last tournament coming up)

Soon our time will be freed up as those commitments will be ending and we will be moving on to other tasks and adventures.  Fear not, anyone who reads this blog with any semblance of regularity, we will be having a plethora of posts coming very soon. For one, Shannon's sister Meagan is here right now and we just wrapped up a trip to Otavalo. We will be spending some time with her the rest of this week in Papallachta and the Amazon, with stories to come. I will be going to Trinidad and Tobago with my basketball team for an end of season tournament in a few weeks, and I will also be going to Lima, Peru in mid-April. This all takes places as our wedding date rapidly approaches like a train and we have planning and coordination to take place along with it to match, just for good measure. Anyway, on to some of the stuff we have been doing in the meantime.

A Painting from his Age of Anger Collection

Ever since we arrived in Quito, we were told what a wonderful place it was and what wonderful culture it had. The highlight of the culture we were told, is the famous museum of Guayasamin, Ecuador's national treasure, and most famous artist. While we have heard wonderful things about the museum, and the location is no more than an 11 minute car ride, we had never made it there before this past week. Whether we had car trouble, they were closed for a holiday, or we were hiding under our volcano shelter (dining room table) for fear of impending doom, we just never could find our way into the museum.

The Temple of Man

Well, that has changed, and the place is incredible. A brief background on the man, Oswaldo Guayasamin is that he grew up the son of an indigenous and mestizo (mixed indigenous/Spanish decent) young man in an impoverished household. His father was employed as a carpenter. When Oswaldo was a young child, his father brought home a piece of pottery that he found along the road in Ecuador that turned out to be a pre-Columbian artifact (probable Incan). This sparked a great interest in Guayasamin in pre-Columbian culture, art, and society. This interest turned into a personal and professional focus on human beings. 

As a young artist, he focused his painting and sculpture work on human forms, specifically stages of emotion such as rage or anguish. He spent his life painting, sculpting, and portraying his infatuation with people through his art. His primary influence, which can clearly be seen in his art style, was Pablo Picasso. When he was close to the end of his life, he donated his Ecuadorian mansion as a museum and commissioned a separate art gallery on his property that would, when finished, be known as the Temple of Man. 

Casa de Guayasamin

We arrived at around 10am and took the tour of his home first. The house is an incredible mansion overlooking the city of Quito with work-spaces, libraries, pools, and smaller galleries. It is also home to one of the largest collections of pre-Columbian artifacts in Ecuador. There is ancient pottery, weapons, figures, and countless other artifacts displayed throughout the house, and being the history nerd that I am, I loved every second of it. Along the tour of the house, we learned quite a lot about Guayasamin and his life from a great and knowledgeable tour guide named Amanda. 

A Painting from His Age
of Tenderness Period

When we left the house, we walked over to the Temple of Man and perused his art collection, which was awe-inspiring to say the least. He had collections that focused on the black experience of slaves and former slaves throughout South America and the world. He also had collections that centered on anger, indigenous South Americans, and another focused on tenderness. Many of the paintings were more than 10 feet by 16 feet wide and the expression he was able to capture on his canvas was incredible. 

It may have taken us a long time to get there, but the Guayasamin Museum is certainly worth checking out for anyone who appreciates art.

Swim Team Goes to the Lake

You may remember that back in September I competed in an open-water swim up in Otavalo. And if you read the post, you’ll recall that it was quite the harrowing experience for me. Well, this weekend my coaching partner and I did it again, but this time we took our swim team!

My coaching partner explained that every year the swim team used to take this weekend trip together, and that swimming the lake became not only a highly anticipated event for the team each year, but also a rite of passage. For whatever reason this tradition discontinued and the trip had not been made in some many years. Our school was a little sketched out about the liability concern (and I can’t say that I blame them), so we made this an “unofficial” team trip. Parents had to make all their own arrangements and provide their own transportation. So after much planning and preparation, we had 9 swimmers from our team of 21 that decided they would go swim the lake with us.

Warm-Ups

We stayed overnight in a hotel on the edge of the lake and hired two boats to follow us and, if needed, haul a swimmer out of the water. I’ll remind you that the water is a chilly 18 degrees C (or 65 F). We held a meeting the night before in the hotel restaurant with all the swimmers and their parents, assuring them that their children’s’ safety was our top concern, and how this was going to be a little scary – for the swimmers to swim and the parents to watch. We explained that due to months of training, this challenge was not going to be a matter of physical endurance – because our swimmers had that, but rather this was going to challenge them mentally – to fight through the shock of the cold water and to get over the fear of swimming in open-water. At this point we noticed some of our swimmers’ smiles gradually change to looks of concern. After all the questions from parents were answered and we had sufficiently scared the daylights out of students, we went to bed.

Time to Get Ready!

We met in the parking lot at 6:30 am for some light exercise and warm ups and then we loaded up into the boats – parents on one boat, swimmers on the other. My partner and I had already divided the swimmers into 2 groups. One group would swim a full 3,000 meters and the second group would swim 2,200. Her husband was going to swim with the first group, and she and I were going to swim with the second group. (So yes, this means I had to swim in that ice cold lake AGAIN!)

Off You Go!

The boat took us out to the desired distance and then we all jumped in and started swimming! Immediately there were two kids who started panicking and wanted to get out but we wouldn’t let them. Remember – this is going to take mental toughness, we told them. We’re not going to let you drown, but we’re not going to let you quit, either. So together, spread out in groups of two and three, we started swimming across the lake. My partner and I had the task of swimming back and forth in between the groups and shouting words of encouragement to our swimmers. And if just treading water and obsessively doing head counts of swim caps won’t tire you out enough, try having to coax along a reluctant swimmer as well. No easy feat!

Braving the Cold Water

Remember that scene in Titanic when Rose and Jack are clinging to a piece of flotsam and they are slowly going into shock from hypothermia but they are professing their undying love for each other? It was sort of like that. I’ll never let go, Jack!

Push through the Cold and Fear of Lake Monsters!

Finally, after about an hour of swimming we all reached the shore. It was a little hilarious when some of the girls got tangled up in some algae and started screaming their heads off. I would be lying if I said their own parents weren’t laughing at their histrionics. Next, we were shuttled out to the big boat where we were welcomed by proud parents, warm clothes, and jugs of cinnamon water and hot chocolate.

Approaching the Finish Line

I was so proud of our kids to be able to complete this challenge. I’m sure at one point or another they all wanted to quit. And I saw the looks of strain and concern on all of their faces at one point or another during the swim, but they did it and they did it together and it was such a cool thing to be a part of.

We received so much love and gratitude from the parents. They really understood what we were trying to teach their children with this experience – about grit and toughness and perseverance. One girl even said that it was “the best day of her life.” And I hope this can once again become a regular tradition for the swim team here as I believe it was an invaluable experience for all of those who did it, myself included.

VICTORY!!!

Ano Viejo-The Old Year

Poor Widow

After spending Christmas with family in Orlando, Justin and I returned to Quito on the afternoon of the 31^st.  And while we were still heartbroken over losing Howie, we were determined to try to start the New Year off on a positive note.

I’ll admit that last year I think we were both a little too shy to get in on the traditional Ano Nuevo celebrations – burning effigies in the streets, paying alms to the men in drag (symbolic widows of the Ano Nuevos) harassing cars at street corners. But this time we dove right in. First, I picked up a bottle of champagne from the duty free store in the airport. Next, we walked down to the corner to purchase an Ano Viejo.

This is a stuffed doll effigy with paper mache face that is supposed to symbolize the old year. The faces on these things are all slightly terrifying, and the fact that their bodies are made of what appear to be old infant clothing is a dad unsettling. However, we picked an ugly old hag doll, paid $5 and then returned home.

Creepiest Shopping Experience Ever

Next we scouted out a good patch of sidewalk to set this thing on fire. Armed with Ano Viejo and two plastic cups of cheap champagne, we set off. Justin spent about 15 minutes trying set this thing ablaze. Finally, we had to tear holes into the onesie it was wearing and light some of the shredded newspaper stuffing inside. After much ado it finally started to burn. We sat on the curb sipping our champagne and watching the flames.

a lighter, our

Got One!

Next it was time to make an affirmation for the New Year and as is Ecuadorian custom, to jump over the Ano Viejo as it burns. We thought about the loved ones we lost in 2015. Though they may no longer be with us on this earth, we know they live on in Eternity and in our hearts, stories, and memories.

And with that, we jumped over the old year and landed with two feet into the New.

Leave 2015 Behind

Goodbye Old Friend

I debated whether or not to write this post for a while. There are some things that are meant to be kept to oneself and to be kept private, and things that aren't interesting to all the people who read our blog. Over the past year Shannon and I have gone through the trial of losing loved ones while living far away. Our distance kept us from being able to say our final goodbyes in a way that was gut wrenching for both of us. I say this now only to highlight the sort of events are meant to be dealt with on a private level, or with family only instead of publishing on the internet. However, the flip side of that token is that one of our primary uses of this blog is to capture our lives as we travel abroad like a time capsule. I want to read this one day and experience the same sorrows and joys that I am feeling at this time because it all makes up our lives as we are living them. What's a time capsule without realism? To remember only the exciting, fun, or convenient is to do a disservice to ourselves and anyone who happens to read this blog. That's why I decided ultimately to share some of our most recent experiences on the blog.

A week ago, our dog, a member of our family, and one of my best friends in the world, Howie, died of a traumatic and sudden cause. I adopted Howie at a pet shelter in NJ in 2005 and have had him ever since. You will recall if you've been keeping up with this blog that moving to Ecuador without Howie was never an option. He was a main part of my life, and the only constant from the time I was 18 until last week. He was by my side playing, walking, and guarding my house when it was a small apartment in a bad neighborhood in NJ, then a nicer area in Florida, then a house with a yard when my house became our house and he and I moved in with Shannon, and ultimately here in Ecuador. He was a part of our family and he will be missed.

I will save some details and feelings for myself but mention this. Howie was an incredible dog whose kind spirit, obedience, loyalty, and playful nature will not be forgotten. He was by my side when I was a punk teenager making my way through college, feeling out my career, and then when I found Shannon and we embraced this lifestyle of nomadic adventure. He was an omnipresent figure in my life and in our family. I will always be thankful for the way he taught me responsibility and unselfishness as a young man and Shannon and I will always cherish the memories we all had together.

Few people know the joys of having a dog, but those who do truly understand that they heighten everything in your life. The feeling of coming home after a long day and seeing the eyes of a dog glaring up at you excited by your mere presence is unmatched by almost anything in this world. Dogs bring great joy, companionship, and stabilizing calmness to the lives of anyone they are around. But their loss often exemplifies the worst a person can feel.

Howie lived a good life. He played on the Pacific beaches of coastal Ecuador, ran around in the mountainous parks of Quito, sunbathed beneath palm trees in Florida, and ran around on the streets of New Jersey. Thank you to Meagan, Candy, Tom, Ellen, Bethany, and any and everyone who helped us bring him to Ecuador when we moved. It was not an easy task. A special thank you goes to Howie for completing our family and for all the memories. Good bye my old friend.

R.I.P. Howie 2004-2015

Movie Night

In the states, if you want to watch a movie, you go to the theater or stream a movie from one of the seemingly endless options like Netflix, Hulu, Amazon Prime, and cable on demand. Things are a little different in Quito.

While copyright laws exist everywhere last time I checked, they aren't taken seriously here. Piracy of intellectual property is a serious crime in the states and people pirating entertainment like music or movies is illegal and theoretically should not happen. Although, let's be real here...who hasn't partaken in some entertainment plunder before?

While movie and music piracy exists in the states, there is at least a guise of consideration in place. People steal from their PCs at home, from the comfort of their couches with their pjs on. (Criminal masterminds!)

In Ecuador however, piracy is a much more open crime. There are pirated DVD stores on almost every block. The stores are lined with cheap cases and printed covers on a basic ink jet printer.

DVDs exist from movies that were produced in the 1950s all the way through and including movies that are still out in theaters. The quality and language of the movies vary but you can get a brand new DVD for $2.50 or 5 movies for $10.

So much for copyright laws.

Fiestas de Quito

It seems that every city in Ecuador has their own independence holiday. Quito’s Foundation Day is celebrated on December 6. Each year the Spanish department at our school puts on a huge celebration to showcase the culture, music, and language of the country. I was able to attend the early childhood division’s celebration and it was beyond cute.

On the elementary soccer and recess fields, they arranged the rows of chairs on 3 sides to create a plaza. The early childhood division spans from preschool to Grade 2. Each class was assigned a role to play in what was to be a simulated bull fight. The preschool girls were dressed up as Reinas de Quito (imagine tiny beauty queens with itty bitty sashes and tiaras) and the boys were caballeros, or cowboys, replete with construction paper horses on sticks. The Kindergarten classes were a mixture of street vendors – some sold empanadas, others candy, and others popcorn. Then there were the street sweepers with shortened brooms and dustpans. One by one, all of these classes made their entrance into the plaza to the cheers of the adoring audience.

Next, the Grade 1 and Grade 2 classes, respectively performed a multi-faceted dance that included flamenco dancers, musicians, policeman, and ambulance drivers. All the students in the grade level performed at the same time, filling up the plaza and dancing and singing with their cardboard props.

Finally, it was time for the bullfight. Thankfully, they’ve scaled back the violence for this particular performance. The “bull” (played by a gracious kindergarten dad) galloped back and forth across the plaza wearing a huge plush bull head, complete with nose ring. Now, instead of the stabbing and taunting that goes along with real bullfights, our bull was subjected to vigorous “tickling” with long paper feathers. Two at a time, little pre-K students ran up to the bull (who was on all fours at this point) and tickled his head and back with giant paper feathers. The bull would roll his head around and shake out a back leg, much like a dog enjoying a good backrub. Once the feather ticklers were done, a fresh batch of little kids came out with soft foam rollers and gave the bull a back rub. But all the tickling and back rubbing had an effect on the bull. Because suddenly he was pooping in every corner of the plaza. The poop (all part of the plan, mind you) was really just crumpled up paper balls that the bull tossed from a bag on his hip, all for the sake of giving the aforementioned street sweepers something to do! That’s right, after bull had finished his business, out dashed a dozen little children with brooms and dustpans to clean up the mess.

And then for the finale, all the little street vendors made one more pass around the audience to sell their snacks. The audience, having been primed earlier, were ready with wads of fake dollar bills to buy the popcorn and empanadas. Lastly was one more song and festive dance and then the celebration came to an end.

I was truly impressed by the obvious level of thought, planning and creativity that went into coordinating every aspect of this performance. And seeing the glee on the faces of the bull feather ticklers and back rubbers was definitely an endearing treat. Viva Quito!

Hiking the Páramo

Snow on the ground

This past weekend we had the opportunity to do a hike we’ve been wanting to do since we moved here. Papallacta is a small village about an hour and 15 minutes southeast of Quito. You pass through this village on your way to the Amazon. Papallacta itself sits at about 3,000 feet and contains many natural hot springs, which was the ultimate destination of our hike – the famous thermal pools of Papallacta, or “Termas de Papallacta.” These pools are fed by steaming water carried underground from the nearby volcanoes, Cayambe and Antisana. The water ranges in temperature from 86⁰ to 158⁰ Farenheit. People then control the temperature of various pools by adding different amounts of cold water. There is a luxury hotel built around several of these pool, Hotel Termas Papallacta. If you are a paying guest at the hotel, you can use the pools for free. Or, if you want to just drive up for the day, you can purchase a day pass for around $15.

In the soaring mountains surrounding Papallacta is a very unique and interesting ecosystem that I only just

Sleet and mist

learned about called The Páramo, and it is from here that the Páramo microbrewery in Quito takes its name. This ecosystem exists only in the Andes, at an elevation of 11,000-16,000 feet. The climate is cold and humid, with strong winds and almost a constant drizzle of near-freezing rain. The vegetation is like nothing I’ve ever seen before. The ground is spongy, due to constant rainfall and many of the shrubs and plants look like different types of coral that would be living under the sea. There are cacti and long, spiky grasses. And the terrain is dotted with lakes ranging in size, but with surfaces as still as glass. There are also narrow waterfalls that rush surprisingly fast and loud, and at times even run right under the trail. Trout populate these lakes and streams and are the typical cuisine at most restaurants, served whole, either steamed or fried. The predominant colors are brown and grey, sprinkled with fire-red coral-like plants, and an occasional yellow or purple flower.

One of several lakes

To begin our hike, we drove our cars up to the antennas, the highest accessible peak. When we got out of our cars, I was shocked to see that there was actually sleet falling, and the ground was dusted with a thin, slushy coating of snow!! I only hesitated briefly on the prudence of hiking down steep mountains in such wet, slippery conditions. We were a group of 18 and we were going for it! I was suited up in two layers of pants – my cold-weather running tights underneath and my newly purchased quick-dry hiking pants, thick Merina wool socks and waterproof hiking boots. My top half was layered up in a thermal undershirt and waterproof jacket, a wool beanie with ear covers, and thin fleece gloves. I was still shivering. The hike would last about 5 ½ hours and the precipitation, while changing from snow to sleet to light rain, would remain continuous for the entire time.

Landscape of brown and grey

Almost everyone fell once or twice on the journey. It’s unavoidable. (Editor's Note: Justin did not fall) The ground is wet and slippery, and on many places of the dirt trail, there was a steam of fast-flowing water – runoff from higher up the mountain. One of my forward tumbles dislodged the banana from my backpack and sent it sailing over the path and out of reach. Sadly, I didn’t realize this until we had stopped for a snack and I discovered it was missing. Fortunately I still had my favorite hiking treat-gummy bears!

Only the first 30 minutes were uncomfortable. After that my body started to warm up, the ground became less treacherous, and I really started to enjoy myself. The scenery was beautiful. Such a juxtaposition

The Occasional Flower

between a landscape that looked arid with cacti and long brown grasses and spiky plants but that was actually sodden with rain water and melted snow that it seemed the ground would never dry out was a surreal experience. We could occasionally hear birds calling in the distance, and actually spotted one once. And several times along the trail we saw dark green bear poop – but we never actually spied a bear -they are apparently quite elusive. The hike was mostly downhill and I was amazed by how good I felt. Once you resign to the fact that you’re going to be wet and slightly uncomfortable for a few hours, you can really enjoy yourself. This was nothing like hiking Pichincha where I felt like I could hardly breathe. On the contrary, I felt spry, I felt energized and I was in the lead of the pack for the entire hike.

Snack break

At around 1pm we made our final decent to where the trail dead ends into a park ranger station. Once here, the rangers will phone into town and call you a taxi to take you the remaining 10 kilometers into Papallacta, and to our final destination – the thermal pools. This was hands-down the most miserable part of the entire day. Almost immediately after you stop moving the cold starts to set into your bones. At this point, we are all soaked through. My thin gloves were now so wet that they were turning my fingertips into icicles so I just had to take them off. And after stomping and tromping through bogs and puddles, my boots were even filled with water and squished at every step. I couldn’t help but think that if someone from the village opened up a Canelazo cart at the ranger station they would make a killing. What could be better than ending your hike with a steaming orange and cinnamon cocktail? After 30 teeth-chattering minutes, the taxis arrived and shuttled us the rest of the way. Now it was time for our reward of arduous cardio – soaking in hot steamy pools and drinking cold Pilsener grandes.

Waterfall

The landscape brought to mind scenes from many fantasy movies. The beginning of the downhill/uphill hike through sleet and rocky cliffs was reminiscent of Bilbo’s Unexpected Journey. One would only be mildly surprised if a band of Orks came tearing through the scene, pursued by the ever-glamorous, androgynous Elves with white flowing hair, sending arrows flying through the misty air. Then, there was the time that half of our group decided to take a shortcut through The NeverEnding Story’s Swamp of Sadness. It was here that one of our friends narrowly escaped when she stepped into a bog up to her chest and had to be pulled out of the sucking mud, happily she avoided Artax’s fate. Fight the sadness, Artax! Finally, as we neared the end of our hike, and therefore the lowest elevation, the landscape became carpeted with lush greenery and mosses just like in Fern Gully – complete with tiny flitting white moths…or were they faeries??

Medium Pools

There are two options for accommodations at Hotel Papallacta. You can stay in a standard hotel room, or if

Hot Pools

you have a large group, you can rent a Cabaña Familiar (family cabin) that sleeps 6 comfortably, has a fireplace and kitchenette, and grants you access to some of the more private hot pools. So our group rented two family cabins. The rest of the afternoon was spent going between the tepid warm pool, and the turn-your-toes-bright-pink hot pool. After several large beers consumed pool side, we decided to venture into town (a 90 second walk from the hotel grounds) to have dinner at a local restaurant. I’m fairly sure our table of 15 hungry gringos made this guy’s week. Clearly, I went with the trucha frita, whole fried trout. This comes with French fries, a small salad, white rice, and limes. Justin and I both ate our fill of trout, and washed it down with several beers for $10 each.

Landscaping around the pools

The next morning Justin and I woke up early to go retrieve Howie from his overnight stay at the kennel. The rain had completely cleared up and we were gifted with a crisp, clear sky and fresh breeze the whole drive back. We even spotted a few alpacas on the side of the highway. Justin couldn’t resist giving them the eye. This was the perfect way to spend a weekend, and how fortunate we are to have such an interesting and beautiful ecosystem just an hour away from our home. I definitely think we will be making this trip more often.

Justin's got his eyes on you...

Little Mountain

Every year around the weekend of Halloween and leading into November, we have some time off. The school is closed for one day due to All Saints Day and another for the Independence of Cuenca, a major city in the southern region of Ecuador.

It's a Hard Life

All Saints Day is a holiday to celebrate the loved ones lost in the previous year. It is the same holiday where we all eat bread babies and drink spiced fruit juice. If you have no idea what I’m talking about, refer to our post we made this time last year.

Spark Fleet!

For this four day weekend, last year we went to the beach called Same (pronounced SA-MAY) and hung out in an Airb&b rental property where we were stalked a little bit by a mustache twirling villain in the same vein as Snidely Whiplash. (If you don’t know, look him up) He even had the same hat and pale complexion! We had a great time and enjoyed the Pacific Ocean Coastline of Ecuador for the first time. That trip was followed by three to four more last year.

Hammock Pit

So this year we decided to commemorate the anniversary of our first beach trip with…another beach trip! This time we flew to Guayaquil, Ecuador’s most populous city. We did this because we didn’t want to drive 6-12 hours to get to the beach. Instead, we flew 40 minutes and drove for the remaining time in tiny sardine cans called Chevy Sparks. The price for the Sparks were naturally cheaper since they were essentially metal versions of those yellow and red Little Tikes foot powered cars we all had as children. Since they were cheaper, there was a parking lot fleet of about four or five Sparks when we arrived. We went to a beach town called Montanita which means little mountain.

Fresh Fruit Juice!

We all booked a quiet little beach bungalow surf shack that had delicious food, cheap beer, really nice rooms, and a unique layout including a hammock pit with a sunken card table.

We spent the next three days reading in hammocks, laying on the beach, swimming in the ocean, and going to downtown Montanita.

Bourbon Street South America

Now that my friends, is a different story. Downtown Montanita is mostly a small gridlock of streets. It’s about 3 blocks by 3 blocks and includes a main strip called Cocktail Alley. I would equate Downtown Montanita to Bourbon Street. It’s not as large or grandiose as Bourbon Street but the idea is the same. Provide as many restaurants and bars as possible in a walkable space. Music blares all night from all directions and each restaurant is flanked on either side by a club. The only difference I would say between Montanita and Bourbon Street, aside from the side and the ground being covered in sand, is that instead of bars, Montanita has dozens of cocktail stands lining the main street.

Each stand is about five feet wide and has enough plastic chairs for about four people to sit in front. At the stand, customers can get fresh cocktails with the freshest fruit or other ingredients for between $2-4. It’s a really unique setup and a nice place to visit.

Living the Life

Things may have been a little frustrating if we were staying directly in town but since we were a ten minute beach walk away, the sound didn’t carry through the night as those young ‘uns partied until 7am. It was there for those who needed it, and just far enough away for those who didn’t.

Ceviche Bike

The best part of our beach trip this weekend, and of every beach trip we’ve had so far, was the food. We had pescado encocado (fish and rice with a creamy coconut sauce), piscado frito entero (a whole fish, fried and staring up at you from the plate), and of course the Ecuadorian staples of ceviche and fresh empanadas served from a bicycle on the beach. We even had another bicycle riding around selling coconuts. They would use their machete to cut a hole in the top and BAM, fresh coconut water.

It was an incredible trip, a beautiful beach town, and a great way to celebrate the independence of a city I’ve never been to. All in all, it was a great weekend.