Hiking the Páramo

Snow on the ground

This past weekend we had the opportunity to do a hike we’ve been wanting to do since we moved here. Papallacta is a small village about an hour and 15 minutes southeast of Quito. You pass through this village on your way to the Amazon. Papallacta itself sits at about 3,000 feet and contains many natural hot springs, which was the ultimate destination of our hike – the famous thermal pools of Papallacta, or “Termas de Papallacta.” These pools are fed by steaming water carried underground from the nearby volcanoes, Cayambe and Antisana. The water ranges in temperature from 86⁰ to 158⁰ Farenheit. People then control the temperature of various pools by adding different amounts of cold water. There is a luxury hotel built around several of these pool, Hotel Termas Papallacta. If you are a paying guest at the hotel, you can use the pools for free. Or, if you want to just drive up for the day, you can purchase a day pass for around $15.

In the soaring mountains surrounding Papallacta is a very unique and interesting ecosystem that I only just

Sleet and mist

learned about called The Páramo, and it is from here that the Páramo microbrewery in Quito takes its name. This ecosystem exists only in the Andes, at an elevation of 11,000-16,000 feet. The climate is cold and humid, with strong winds and almost a constant drizzle of near-freezing rain. The vegetation is like nothing I’ve ever seen before. The ground is spongy, due to constant rainfall and many of the shrubs and plants look like different types of coral that would be living under the sea. There are cacti and long, spiky grasses. And the terrain is dotted with lakes ranging in size, but with surfaces as still as glass. There are also narrow waterfalls that rush surprisingly fast and loud, and at times even run right under the trail. Trout populate these lakes and streams and are the typical cuisine at most restaurants, served whole, either steamed or fried. The predominant colors are brown and grey, sprinkled with fire-red coral-like plants, and an occasional yellow or purple flower.

One of several lakes

To begin our hike, we drove our cars up to the antennas, the highest accessible peak. When we got out of our cars, I was shocked to see that there was actually sleet falling, and the ground was dusted with a thin, slushy coating of snow!! I only hesitated briefly on the prudence of hiking down steep mountains in such wet, slippery conditions. We were a group of 18 and we were going for it! I was suited up in two layers of pants – my cold-weather running tights underneath and my newly purchased quick-dry hiking pants, thick Merina wool socks and waterproof hiking boots. My top half was layered up in a thermal undershirt and waterproof jacket, a wool beanie with ear covers, and thin fleece gloves. I was still shivering. The hike would last about 5 ½ hours and the precipitation, while changing from snow to sleet to light rain, would remain continuous for the entire time.

Landscape of brown and grey

Almost everyone fell once or twice on the journey. It’s unavoidable. (Editor's Note: Justin did not fall) The ground is wet and slippery, and on many places of the dirt trail, there was a steam of fast-flowing water – runoff from higher up the mountain. One of my forward tumbles dislodged the banana from my backpack and sent it sailing over the path and out of reach. Sadly, I didn’t realize this until we had stopped for a snack and I discovered it was missing. Fortunately I still had my favorite hiking treat-gummy bears!

Only the first 30 minutes were uncomfortable. After that my body started to warm up, the ground became less treacherous, and I really started to enjoy myself. The scenery was beautiful. Such a juxtaposition

The Occasional Flower

between a landscape that looked arid with cacti and long brown grasses and spiky plants but that was actually sodden with rain water and melted snow that it seemed the ground would never dry out was a surreal experience. We could occasionally hear birds calling in the distance, and actually spotted one once. And several times along the trail we saw dark green bear poop – but we never actually spied a bear -they are apparently quite elusive. The hike was mostly downhill and I was amazed by how good I felt. Once you resign to the fact that you’re going to be wet and slightly uncomfortable for a few hours, you can really enjoy yourself. This was nothing like hiking Pichincha where I felt like I could hardly breathe. On the contrary, I felt spry, I felt energized and I was in the lead of the pack for the entire hike.

Snack break

At around 1pm we made our final decent to where the trail dead ends into a park ranger station. Once here, the rangers will phone into town and call you a taxi to take you the remaining 10 kilometers into Papallacta, and to our final destination – the thermal pools. This was hands-down the most miserable part of the entire day. Almost immediately after you stop moving the cold starts to set into your bones. At this point, we are all soaked through. My thin gloves were now so wet that they were turning my fingertips into icicles so I just had to take them off. And after stomping and tromping through bogs and puddles, my boots were even filled with water and squished at every step. I couldn’t help but think that if someone from the village opened up a Canelazo cart at the ranger station they would make a killing. What could be better than ending your hike with a steaming orange and cinnamon cocktail? After 30 teeth-chattering minutes, the taxis arrived and shuttled us the rest of the way. Now it was time for our reward of arduous cardio – soaking in hot steamy pools and drinking cold Pilsener grandes.

Waterfall

The landscape brought to mind scenes from many fantasy movies. The beginning of the downhill/uphill hike through sleet and rocky cliffs was reminiscent of Bilbo’s Unexpected Journey. One would only be mildly surprised if a band of Orks came tearing through the scene, pursued by the ever-glamorous, androgynous Elves with white flowing hair, sending arrows flying through the misty air. Then, there was the time that half of our group decided to take a shortcut through The NeverEnding Story’s Swamp of Sadness. It was here that one of our friends narrowly escaped when she stepped into a bog up to her chest and had to be pulled out of the sucking mud, happily she avoided Artax’s fate. Fight the sadness, Artax! Finally, as we neared the end of our hike, and therefore the lowest elevation, the landscape became carpeted with lush greenery and mosses just like in Fern Gully – complete with tiny flitting white moths…or were they faeries??

Medium Pools

There are two options for accommodations at Hotel Papallacta. You can stay in a standard hotel room, or if

Hot Pools

you have a large group, you can rent a Cabaña Familiar (family cabin) that sleeps 6 comfortably, has a fireplace and kitchenette, and grants you access to some of the more private hot pools. So our group rented two family cabins. The rest of the afternoon was spent going between the tepid warm pool, and the turn-your-toes-bright-pink hot pool. After several large beers consumed pool side, we decided to venture into town (a 90 second walk from the hotel grounds) to have dinner at a local restaurant. I’m fairly sure our table of 15 hungry gringos made this guy’s week. Clearly, I went with the trucha frita, whole fried trout. This comes with French fries, a small salad, white rice, and limes. Justin and I both ate our fill of trout, and washed it down with several beers for $10 each.

Landscaping around the pools

The next morning Justin and I woke up early to go retrieve Howie from his overnight stay at the kennel. The rain had completely cleared up and we were gifted with a crisp, clear sky and fresh breeze the whole drive back. We even spotted a few alpacas on the side of the highway. Justin couldn’t resist giving them the eye. This was the perfect way to spend a weekend, and how fortunate we are to have such an interesting and beautiful ecosystem just an hour away from our home. I definitely think we will be making this trip more often.

Justin's got his eyes on you...