Into La Selva

The Napo River is one of the major tributaries flowing into the Amazon River. And Justin and I had a chance to visit on our last 3-day weekend. Our destination was a riverside lodge, reached only by a 20-minute canoe ride. We first drove to Tena (about 4 hours out of Quito). Once there, we drove another 30 minutes to Punto Ahuano, the marina where we parked our car. The next step was to hire a motorized canoe for $10 which then transported us 30 minutes down the Napo River and right up to our destination, The Anaconda Lodge.

The Napo River

We opted for the all-inclusive “jungle novice” package which included lodging, 3 meals per day, and guided tours through the rainforest and up and down the river. I must say that I was pleasantly surprised by the amount of flora and fauna we got to see without even having to go too deep into the jungle!

On our first hike we got to see a canela (cinnamon) tree, a palm tree that has a trunk as strong as steel and is used to make blow gun darts, a garlic plant, some interesting water birds, leaf cutter ants, and a caiman! (Though if I’m being honest, I wasn’t impressed by that skinny little 3 foot caiman. Come to Florida, we grow gators 14 feet long that swallow boy scouts whole).

The next day we went even deeper into the rainforest. We got back in the canoe and this time motored 30 minutes in the other direction to land on a short sandy beach where we immediately sank in quicksand! It does exist! Before we could enter the selva, our guide Cesar painted our faces using the smashed seeds of an achiote pod. We then slogged through shin-deep mud, around enormous spider webs and menacing conga ants. We saw more medicinal plants including one used as an antibiotic and antivenin treatment, and another plant called hoja de sangre hat is actually used as an antihemorrhagic for men who have sustained injuries hunting or women suffering from heavy menstruation.

The Lodge

But perhaps my favorite part was Saturday night when our lodge had a special visit from a much honored Quechua shaman. At the time there were only about 15 people staying at the lodge and after dinner we all gathered around in a circle in the open air common area. One of the guests volunteered to participate in what was to be a traditional cleansing ritual. Our host explained how the shaman is the most honored person in the community and is treasured for his power to use the old spirits and the plants of the forest to heal. This local shaman, given name Salvador, and age unknown though estimated to be around 85 years old, was small in stature with warm, bronzy skin that seemed to glow from within. He was shirtless, save for strings of beads and his arms were strong and sinewy. He then proceeded to conduct a cleansing ritual that lasted about 20 minutes long and a calm fell over the entire lodge as we sat listening to his chanting and singing in old Kichwa, accompanied by the steady, gentle rustle of his dried leaf wand (for lack of better word).

It’s probably Hollywood’s fault, but I’ve always sort of thought of shamans and medicine men to be kind of dark, mysterious, almost a little frightening. But this was one of the most peaceful, natural, and beautiful spiritual ceremonies that I have ever witnessed. Calling on the spirits of those passed and the powers of nature for cleansing and healing – what could be more right and natural then that. It was simple and benign yet incredibly moving and comforting in a strange sense. When the ritual was concluded I realized I had tears in my eyes. And the woman being cleansed had relaxed into a half sitting-half lounging pose, resting on the strong, small legs of the shaman, a look of utter peace and contentment on her face.

And I think this is the memory I will carry of my first visit to the Amazon. When I first envisioned the Amazon rainforest, I thought of the towering trees I would see, the snakes, the monkeys, the insects and crocodiles and the huge snaking river that connects them all. But my special association now is of the indigenous people living harmoniously there that embody the spiritual union and interconnectedness of them all and who remind us that we are of nature and the power of nature is within us.